Vol. 29 No. 1 (2026) Cover Image
Vol. 29 No. 1 (2026)

Published: March 20, 2026

Pages: 97-102

Original Article

Natural dyeing of cotton fabrics with licorice extract: the role of mordants in enhancing color fastness and protection from ultraviolet rays

Hoda Sharouf 1 Reem Salamon 1
1 Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Petroleum and Chemical Engineering, Homs University, Syria.
History
  • Received: July 31, 2025
  • Revised: October 1, 2025
  • Accepted: November 1, 2025
  • Available Online: March 20, 2026
DOI

https://doi.org/10.29194/NJES.29010097

Abstract

The usage of non-toxic, eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles has achieved notable attention due to increased environmental attention about avoiding hazardous synthetic dyes. This has prompted a return to natural dyes and the search for new sources, especially locally available ones like licorice. In this study, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract (70 g/l), prepared using ultrasound assistance, was used to dye cotton samples. The natural dyeing process employed a simultaneous mordanting method with zinc chloride and alum as mordants, in many concentrations (1, 3, 5, 7 and 10 g/l). The color fastness of the dyed samples was evaluated using a scanner and ImageJ. The fastness of the dyed fabrics was tested against washing and rubbing, and samples with licorice extract showed excellent stability. A tear strength test was also conducted to assess the impact of licorice extract dyeing on the mechanical properties of the samples. It was observed that dyeing with licorice reduced the tear strength, but increasing the concentration of mordants improved the resistance to tearing, making the mordanted samples stronger than the mordanted ones.

Keywords

References

  1. S. Radhakrishnan, Y. Ayyaswamy, and J. A. Basheer, "Natural Dyes: Coloring Tool for Textiles," in Natural Dyes and Sustainability. Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry, S. S. Muthu, Ed. Cham: Springer, 2023, pp. 1-20. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-47471-2_10
  2. S. Mubeen, T. Batool, and G. S. Hussain, "Potent Natural Dyestuffs from Onion Skin to Fabrics Using or Lacking Bio-Mordants," in Dye Chemistry-Exploring Colour From Nature to Lab, IntechOpen, 2024, ch. 69. https://doi.org/10.5772/intechopen.1005579
  3. B. H. Samani, A. Sharifi, F. Jamshidi-Kia, S. Ghaterehsamani, and K. Taki, "Advanced extraction of Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract using a combined ultrasonic and cold plasma reactor," Sci. Rep., vol. 15, no. 1, pp. 1-17, 2025. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-025-94781-w
  4. M. N. Bukhari, M. A. Wani, M. Fatima, J. S. S. Bukhari, M. Shabbir, L. J. Rather, and F. Mohammad, "Dyeing of wool with sappan wood natural dye using metal salts for enhancement in color and fastness properties," J. Nat. Fibers, vol. 20, no. 2, Art. no. 2208890, 2023. https://doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2023.2208890
  5. N. Üren, "Ecological dyeing and UV-protective functionalization of cotton/lyocell blend fabrics designed for high comfort summer clothing," Int. Adv. Res. Eng. J., vol. 8, no. 1, pp. 43-50, 2024. https://doi.org/10.35860/iarej.1371104
  6. H. Benli, "Bio-mordants: a review," Environ. Sci. Pollut. Res., vol. 31, no. 14, pp. 20714-20771, 2024. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-024-32174-8
  7. W. Tegegne, A. Haile, Y. Zeleke, Y. Temesgen, H. Bantie, and S. Biyable, "Natural dyeing and antibacterial finishing of cotton fabric with extracts from Justicia schimperiana leaf extract: a step towards sustainable dyeing and finishing," Int. J. Sustain. Eng., vol. 17, no. 1, pp. 52-61, 2024. https://doi.org/10.1080/19397038.2023.2301702
  8. I. Semenescu, S. Avram, D. Similie, D. Minda, Z. Diaconeasa, D. Muntean, et al., "Phytochemical, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial and Safety Profile of Glycyrrhiza glabra L. Extract Obtained from Romania," Plants, vol. 13, no. 23, Art. no. 3265, 2024. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants13233265
  9. S. Noreen, F. Mubarik, F. Farooq, M. Khan, A. U. Khan, and Y. S. Pane, "Medicinal uses of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.): A comprehensive review," Open Access Maced. J. Med. Sci., vol. 9, no. F, pp. 668-675, 2021. https://doi.org/10.3889/oamjms.2021.7526
  10. S. Wahab, S. Annadurai, S. S. Abullais, G. Das, W. Ahmad, M. F. Ahmad, et al., "Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice): A comprehensive review on its phytochemistry, biological activities, clinical evidence and toxicology," Plants, vol. 10, no. 12, Art. no. 2751, 2021. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants10122751
  11. Y. S. Lee and J. D. Jang, "Dyeing of cotton fabrics by Glycyrrhizae Radix extract," Text. Color. Finish., vol. 22, no. 1, pp. 21-27, 2010. https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2010.22.1.021
  12. S. Adeel, S. Kiran, M. Abbas, et al., "Sustainable isolation of licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.)-based yellow natural colorant for dyeing of bio-mordanted cotton," Environ. Sci. Pollut. Res., vol. 29, pp. 31270-31277, 2022. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11356-021-18472-5
  13. K. Veni and A. Mani, "Preparation and Characterization of Medicinal Herb Glycyrrhiza Glabra and a Study of the Anti-microbial and Thermal Properties on Cotton Fabrics for Eye Syndrome," J. Text. Apparel Technol. Manage., vol. 7, no. 3, pp. 1-10, 2012.
  14. F. Yilmaz, "Application of Glycyrrhiza glabra L. root as a natural antibacterial agent in finishing of textile," Ind. Crops Prod., vol. 157, Art. no. 112899, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2020.112899
  15. A. Koruyucu and F. Ç. Balaban, "Investigation of Flame Retardancy Effect of Licorice Root Extract on Cotton and Cotton-Polyester Blended Fabrics," Çukurova Univ. J. Fac. Eng., vol. 37, no. 2, pp. 351-366, 2022. https://doi.org/10.21605/cukurovaumfd.1146075
  16. I. Safarik, E. Baldikova, J. Prochazkova, and K. Pospiskova, "Smartphone-based image analysis for evaluation of magnetic textile solid phase extraction of colored compounds," Heliyon, vol. 5, no. 12, Art. no. e02995, 2019. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.heliyon.2019.e02995